DESTINATIONS

The Art of Alfriston

8 minute read
Author Profile
Sophie Farrah

At the foot of the South Downs, nestled in unspoilt Sussex countryside, Alfriston is a picture-perfect English village. Yet with a carefully curated mix of stylish, independent businesses, world-class art and a wealth of unforgettable experiences close at hand, its appeal extends well beyond its postcard beauty. 

In the heart of East Sussex, on the edge of the South Downs, sits Alfriston, widely regarded as one of England’s most beautiful villages. A near-perfect distillation of the English countryside at its most charming, its higgledy-piggledy medieval High Street is lined with intriguing shops, welcoming cafés and a thoughtfully curated mix of antique emporiums and creative ventures. It’s an ideal base for vineyard hopping, seaside excursions, world-class art and long, bucolic walks if, that is, you can tear yourself away from the many delights of the village itself.

Approximately sixty miles south of London, Alfriston is nestled in the valley of the River Cuckmere, which gently winds its way through a patchwork of meadows en route to the English Channel. At the heart of the village sits the Tye, a historic green and a scene of almost cinematic perfection. A backdrop for summer fêtes and artisan markets, it’s also home to St Andrew’s Church, a beautiful Grade I-listed building of such stature that it is often referred to as the ‘cathedral of the South Downs’. Built in the 1370s, the church retains many of its original features, including a magnificent wooden spire that rises elegantly above the village rooftops.

Adjacent to the church is the Clergy House, a fairy-tale 15th-century timber-framed building and the first-ever property saved by the National Trust. With its idyllic setting and views across the River Cuckmere, its mixed cottage garden is a delight throughout the year, with Arts and Crafts-style garden rooms and an orchard of old and rare apple trees. Together, these lovely landmarks form a textbook portrait of the quintessential English village.

At Alfriston’s centre sits The Star. Formerly part of Charles Forte’s hotel empire, it remains in the family, now under the stewardship of mother-and-daughter hotel and design duo Olga and Alex Polizzi. It’s the third property in the supremely elegant Polizzi Collection, alongside the chic seaside style of Hotel Tresanton in Cornwall and the quiet, emerald-hued stillness of Hotel Endsleigh in the Devon countryside.

The Star itself is a historic, timber-beamed building that has stood at the heart of the village since the 15th century. It was built by the Abbot of Battle Abbey as a hostel for monks and pilgrims travelling between the Abbey and nearby Chichester Cathedral. While its comforts have evolved considerably over the centuries, fascinating traces of its colourful past remain, including original wooden beams, open fireplaces and an intriguing ‘sanctuary post’.

The Polizzis’ signature aesthetic runs throughout the building, seen in thoughtful lighting, unexpected objects, beautiful artwork and meticulous attention to detail. Walls are adorned with sculpture and paintings of varying styles, layered alongside characterful antiques and abundant fresh flowers. A discreet, residents-only library is well stocked with books and curios, while a wood-panelled enclave provides everything a guest might need for countryside capers, from smart wellington boots and raincoats to cosy blankets and chic Panama hats. Outside, a picturesque courtyard garden, dotted with hot-pink camellias, elegant furniture and ivy-wrapped statues, makes an ideal setting for a glass of rosé in the warmer months.

The hotel’s 29 bedrooms are all luxuriously appointed, with the recently unveiled Forte Suite the preferred choice for Dream Escape guests. The first to feature a separate sitting area, it perfectly showcases the Polizzis’ aptitude for creating interiors that feel both elegant and deeply comfortable. Old English grandeur meets modern Italian flair, with bold patterns and sumptuous fabrics coming together in confident harmony. 

In 2025, the Polizzis expanded their presence in the village by acquiring the building adjacent to The Star, which is now home to Collection Polizzi. This beautifully curated shop presents a considered array of stylish, handcrafted pieces spanning homeware, jewellery, fashion and accessories, making it hard to leave empty-handed.

Alfriston’s High Street provides further temptation, with a rich mix of independent shops run by welcoming owners, intermingled with chocolate box cottages framed by rambling roses. Exceptional antique emporiums offer the thrill of uncovering a piece of history to take home, while contemporary, design-led spaces are stocked with carefully chosen modern treasures. Objet Trouvé is not to be missed; its fascinating, gallery-like interior is brimming with distinctive objets d’art, meticulously sourced curiosities and pieces created by the talented owners themselves. Vintage fashion store The Dressing Room is a treasure trove of one-off finds, while Much Ado Books, widely regarded as one of the finest independent bookshops in the country, is another highlight, its two floors filled with new releases alongside vintage, antiquarian and second-hand finds, with a friendly and knowledgeable team on hand to offer personalised recommendations.

For walkers, Alfriston is perfectly placed. Paths unfurl in every direction, across valleys, along riverbanks and up onto the Downs. The Star provides a selection of routes in handy pocket-sized guides, and Dream Escape particularly recommends the walk to Lullington Church, one of the smallest in England. 

Another rewarding route leads to Rathfinny Wine Estate, one of England’s most impressive vineyards and wineries. This invigorating, hour-long circuit winds through glorious countryside rich with wildlife, before opening onto sweeping views across the vines and out to sea, where walking efforts are rewarded with a glass of Rathfinny’s award-winning ‘Sussex sparkling’. 

For a little pampering after all that exertion, Dream Escape suggests a visit to the lavish spa at local boutique hotel, The Alfriston. Here, a steam room, sauna, expert GAIA treatments and a serene heated outdoor pool set within a walled garden offer deep restoration, perfectly framed by far-reaching countryside views. Part of The Signet Collection, this stylish new hotel combines luxury with playful charm. Upstairs, there are 38 individually styled bedrooms brimming with bold colours, upcycled treasures, and huge roll top baths. 

Beyond the village, Dream Escape organises bespoke tours that offer exclusive access to some of the area’s most remarkable properties, including private visits and after-hours experiences. The surrounding countryside offers rich opportunity for cultural and historic exploration, much of it connected to the Bloomsbury Group, the influential group of writers, artists and thinkers who lived and worked in London during the early 20th century and spent significant time in East Sussex.

Charleston remains an exquisite testament to Bloomsbury creativity. Once the country home of Vanessa Bell and Duncan Grant, it offers a rare insight into their decorative vision within a domestic setting, representing the culmination of more than sixty years of artistic collaboration. 

The breathtaking murals at Berwick Church, painted during the Second World War by Duncan Grant, Vanessa Bell and her son Quentin Bell, are also not to be missed.

Nearby, Farleys House and Gallery was once a meeting place for some of the key figures of 20th-century art. The former home of Lee Miller and Roland Penrose, this captivating Georgian farmhouse welcomed Pablo Picasso and other artistic luminaries. Today, it can be explored at leisure alongside its beautifully landscaped sculpture garden. The magnificent historic residences of Firle Place and Glynde Place are also within easy reach, both offering the chance to step back in time while immersed in beautiful countryside. 

Of the nearby towns, Lewes is beautifully preserved and full of character, with interesting shops and antiques climbing the steep hill towards the castle that crowns the town. Towards Alfriston, the beach at Cuckmere Haven offers dramatic views of the Seven Sisters, a series of iconic chalk cliffs rising sharply from sea to sky, and among the most striking coastal landscapes in the country.

Back in the village, there is no shortage of places to eat well. The colourful 1554 Brasserie at The Alfriston Hotel serves locally sourced dishes with views across its pretty lawn, while the lively bar and sunlit Orangery make a lovely spot for a cocktail. At The Star, Italian-inspired dishes celebrate seasonality and exceptional local produce. The fresh pasta is not to be missed, and the hotel’s traditional afternoon tea is another indulgent highlight, best enjoyed beneath the historic beamed ceiling of the dining room.

Next door, the welcoming wine shop and laid-back restaurant, Poco, serves authentic Italian flavours made with local ingredients, making it an ideal choice for a relaxed lunch. Further along the High Street, Wingrove House is a thoughtfully refurbished colonial-style house with airy verandas, a candlelit bar and a modern British brasserie overlooking the Tye. For dinner, Rathfinny is another excellent choice, where the vineyard’s Flint Barns serves comforting, unfussy cooking paired with the estate’s impressive English wines.

After dinner, Alfriston offers a choice of cosy, characterful pubs, each well suited to a nightcap or two. And then, it is time for bed. With little more than the distant hoot of an owl to disturb the night, sleep comes easily, with thoughts of what tomorrow might bring in this captivating, creative English village, set between Downs, river and sea.

IMAGE CREDITS: ©Hollie Fernando / Emma Croman / Lewis Ronaldo: The Clergy House / Adobe Stock / The National Trust Clergy House: Sue Martin / The Star at Alfriston: Sophie Farrah / ©Alex Polizzi / Sophie Grounds / Paul Powici / Backyard Productions / James Ratchford / Kenneth Taylor / Woolcock Photo library / Graham Carlow

Join Our Newsletter

To get a seamless blend of UK heritage, Scottish mist, and Irish soul sent straight to your inbox.

    DESTINATIONS

    Best family days out in Wales

    Luscious green valleys, dense forests, majestic mountains and serene lakes. The diverse landscapes of Wales are an outdoor playground for adventurous families seeking thrilling activities and a connection to nature....

    Discover More